Netherlands Trip Day 2 - Exploring Haarlem, North Holland Province (Sunday July 21st, 2019)

August 17, 2019

Netherlands Trip Day 2 - Exploring Haarlem, North Holland Province (Sunday July 21st, 2019)

Netherlands Trip Day 2 - Exploring Haarlem, North Holland Province (Sunday July 21st, 2019)

Haarlem is a beautiful town that is dated back to pre-middle ages. We chose Haarlem to begin our journey in The Netherlands because it is situated close to Amsterdam Airport Schiphol (it only took us less than twenty minutes to get to town from the airport including making a wrong turn), rich in history and culture, and much less crowded than the international destination of Amsterdam. Haarlem today has all the modern amenities of a modern metropolis (Apple Store on Houtstraat) with cityscape that seemed unchanged since the Dutch Golden ages.

Joanne and I got up early this morning to scout the town. Our plan is to make a counter-clock wise loop along the canal (the River Spaarne) from the south of the town towards the north of the town and return to our hotel which is located in the town center. We headed out shortly after 7:00 am before everyone else woke up. We walked onto Zilstraat towards St. Bavokerk and Grote Markt. Just before St. Bavokerk, we made a right onto Grote Houtstraat, the main shopping street where the Apple Store is located.

There wasn't a single person on Grote Houtstraat, where it will be filled with pedestrian when we return later in the day. We walked pass the Apple Store on Grote Houtstraat and countless local shops that were not yet opened. At the end of the street, we ran into a bakery that was actually open. We sampled the freshly baked bread. However, I did not bring money with me otherwise we would have likely purchased an item or two.

Walking onto Zilstraat shortly after 7:00 am, before most people are awake

Flowers in front of Town Hall at the Grote Markt

Bakker Van Vessem, located at the south end of Grote Houtstraat where we sampled freshly baked bread early in the morning

Freshly baked bread

Walking by the Frans Hals Museum-Hof, where we would return later in the day

Along the River Spaarne with St. Bavokerk in view

At the lifting bridge of Wijdesteeg, where we will return later in the day for the boat tour

Canal view just pass the Teylers Museum

Reaching Molen de Adriaan

Quaint house on Kokstraat, a small street that leads to the Molen de Adriaan. We would end up walking by this small street a number of times

A house that appears to lean to the left on the inner canal of Bakenessergracht

Reflection of houses in the canal on Bakenessergracht

Over the bridge on Korte Begijnestraat with Frans Hals Museum in distance

View from Haarlem

Walking back to the Grote Markt via Janstraat

A house dated 1624 (Anno 1624) sandwiched between two newer buildings

Ornate facade of the narrow house

Back at the Grote Markt, right before the 8:00 bell

Franz Hals Museum - Hal

Back at our hotel shortly after 8:00 am

Kids and mom were ready for breakfast when we entered the dining area. Specific table was reserved based on party size. We had a long table in the middle of the dining area. The owner of Hotel Malts Henk and Annamarie were busy making freshly squeezed orange juice in the kitchen and keeping everything in order. We were served fresh coffee and juice. The food was fresh and great. It was our first breakfast in The Netherlands and we enjoyed it immensely.

Breakfast time

coffee, juice, and a full plate

Breakfast roll with old cheese

Breakfast roll with young cheese

Me and the owner Henk

After breakfast, we're charged for the day. We have a full day of exploration today. Our plan is to first explore the Molen de Adriaan, which is now a windmill museum. Then make our way to the Tylers Museum to explore one of the oldest public museums in the world, also a UNESCO world heritage site. We also plan to catch the canal cruise sometime around mid day either before or after the visit to the Tylers Museum. We then plan to re-visit the busy shopping street of Grote Houtstraat to catch a bit of window shopping and gelato. We will also visit the Franz Hals museum nearby Grote Houtstraat. The early morning walk that Joanne and I did had paved the way of how we plan to explore Haarlem for rest of the day today.

Molen De Adriaan

Molen De Adriaan is the iconic windmill situated by the river Spaarne. This is major landmark of Haarlem. The windmill itself is not particularly old. It was dated back to the 18th century. However over the years due to fire and damage, the most recent version was rebuilt by early 2000s.

We took the same route but in reverse to get to the windmill. We took some pictures along the way again and slowly it to the mill museum close to 11:00 am.

Picture over the bridge on Korte Begijnestraat on the way to the windmill

View of Molen De Adriaan across the River Spaarne

Taking in the view

Walking across the bridge to the windmill museum

Walking towards the windmill through the quiet neighborhood

We caught the 11:00 guided tour of the Molen De Adriaan Museum. We sat at the first floor and watched a brief video about the history of the windmill. We felt much more informed after the video. After the video, our guide led us through the side door up the stairs to the main windmill structure. Our little group consisted of a family from France who were staying at the same hotel as us, two travelers from Denmark, and one traveler from Italy. When we climbed the spiral stairs up to the second level of the windmill, our guide talked to us about the various functions of the windmills using several intricately made models. We learned about various type of mills that served different types of purposes. The wooden mill models are beautifully made with intricate details done perfectly.

Dutch flag (back) and Haarlem flag (front) outside the mill

A model of a mill that slices timbers

Details of the mill mechanism

A mill grinding mechanism, similar to the one used at the Molen De Adriaan

Delftware and tea cup by the window

We took one more set of stairs up to the mill attic to learn about the mechanism of the mill and the various items this mill produced. The deck is located on the second floor and it had great view of the River Spaarne and Haarlem. We tried to take in all the information but at the end, we just enjoyed the walk and scenery around the mill.

Our guide explaining to the group what products the mill produced

Our guide showing us the lifting mechanism in the mill attic

Gear mechanism of the mill

Stepping on a scale

Great view of Haarlem from the mill deck. The dome shaped building is the former "dome prison". It closed in 2016 and briefly held Syrian refugees in 2017.

View of the River Spaarne

The colorful green sail

From a different angle

Visitors enjoying the mid day sun

Family picture at the deck - yes the Asian family picture

Picture with our guide at the end of the tour just before noon time

Since we finished breakfast a bit later, we decided to skip lunch entirely and hit our next stops - the Teylers Museum and the canal tour. Teylers Museum and the canal tour were very close to each other and was only a quick walk from the Molen De Adriaan. The Teylers Museum was a legacy of Haarlem merchant and banker Pieter Teyler van Der Hulst. The museum was founded per Pieter Teyler's will and was meant to foster the understanding of science and natural history.

The most prominent aspect of the museum of the "Oval Room". The Oval Room was designed in the late 18th century to conduct scientific experiments and also function as a library.

Making our way to the Teylers Museum, passing the lifting bridge of Wijdesteeg again

At the entrance to the Teylers Museum

At the fossil room where pre-historic fossils and minerals are displayed

At the Instrument Room where various instruments used to conduct electricity experiments are displayed

Portrait of Professor H. A Lorentz (1853-1928). Lorentz was the Director of the Teyler Physical Lab from 1909 to 1928. Lorentz's ether theory played a pivotal role in propelling modern physics

Entering the famed "Neo-classical" Oval Room, the "Neo-classical" style can be observed from the Roman Style columns and the "patterned" placement of windows and book shelves

GG taking in The Oval Room

MM att the Oval Room, the mineral collections can be seen in the center glass case

Wooden windmill models

At the painting gallery where Dutch paintings are displayed - the small frame, the folksy theme, and sea ferrying are all common Dutch painting characteristics from the 17th century golden ages

A closer look at the Dutch Republic through its paintings - peaceful country side, great food and game, intellectual discussion, well-to-do-citizen, and sea-ferrying - this spirit remains today

Jacobus van Looy - "The Garden" circa 1893. Dutch impressionism at its best.

Taking in the Dutch impressionism

Windmill on the country side

Sketches from Rembrandt of Dutch country side

Sketches of ruin by Rembrandt

Life in The Netherlands

A day at the market

French connection - Holland was once conquered by Napoleon

After our quick tour of the Teylers Museum and failed attempt to grab a cup of coffee at the museum cafe (there was no one tending the cafe), we headed straight to the 1:30 canal tour.

Taking in the quintessential view of Haarlem while waiting for our canal tour to start

Enjoying a drink by the River Spaarne

Starting our canal tour - bridge of Wijdesteeg has lifted for us

Our skipper for the next 45 minutes

Cruising by Molen De Adriaan

Cruising under beautiful pedestrian bridge

Cruising by the Cathedral of St. Bavo, built in the late 19th to early 20th century. An apparent "Neo-gothic" style Cathedral now serves as the main cathedral for the Roman Catholic Diocese of Haarlem. The St. Bavokerk on Grote Markt had been converted to a protestant church since 1578 during the period of reformation.

The canal tour dropped us off just pass the Frans Hals Museum - our next museum stop. We cruised from the north east corner of the town to now south east corner. It is now apparent to us that if we do not feed the hunger, there would be a revolution within our traveling party.

We located the gelato store Garrone on Grote Houtstraat just west of the Frans Hals Museum. The mood of the traveling party has been lifted from consuming the gelato.

All smile now

Tough call

A needed break

Visiting a local cheese shop across from the Gelato place

Lots of choices and samples

After re-charging our batteries at the gelato store, we are now ready to tackle the next museum - The Frans Hals Museum HOF location. The HOF location is maybe about 100 meters of walking distance from Grote Houtstraat. This location used to be sort of retirement home for elder gentleman in Haarlem and also served as an orphanage. The architecture is classic Holland with narrow building facade but ornate roof top decoration.

Entrance to the Frans Hals Museum - HOF location

Ornate facade of a neighboring building, cost of arms of Haarlem can be clearly seen

The inner entrance to the museum. A glass awning connects the inner face to the outer entrance.

The Frans Hals Museum is there we got our first heavy dosage of Golden Age Dutch art. We focused on the work of Frans Hals - the 17th century Dutch/Flemish painter. Hals' rough brush stroke was highly influential and celebrated by the art influencers in the 19th century such as Manet and Van Gogh. We also enjoyed the paintings of Haarlem done by other 17th century artist since we could still see many of the architectures and buildings from the painting today.

Frans Hals, "The Fisher boy"

Frans Hals - "Banquet of the Officers of the St. George Civic Guard", Group portrait

Frans Hals - "Banquet of the Officers of the Calivermen Civic Guard" on the right and "Meeting of the Officers of the Sergents and Calivermen Civic Guard" on the left, Group portrait

Floris Gerritsz van Shooten, "Still Life"

Gerrit Adriaensz Berckheyde, "The Grote Markt in Haarlem with the Grote or St. Bavokerk seen from the west", circa 1696

"The Grote Markt in Haarlem with the Grote or St. Bavokerk seen from the west", circa 2019

Gerrit Adriaensz Berckheyde, "View on the Bakenessergracht with the de Passer en de Valk brewery"

Gerrit Adriaensz Berckheyde, "The Fish Market in Haarlem in the direction of the townhall"

Ornate decoration on the frame

A painting depicting country life

Sketch of classic Holland architecture

Delftware fragments

A room with a typewriter where visitors can type a brief paragrah

Looking through the window at the center court yard

After about close to two hours of touring the museum, we were approaching our museum limit. We wrapped up our visit and headed back to Grote Houtstraat for some street shopping and had Thai food for dinner. Joanne and I took another walk around Haarlem so take in the city one more time. It's sad for me to leave Haarlem. I have enjoyed the people, the city, the culture, the art, and the food so much.

A cat in the window outside the Teylers Museum