Nepal Trip Day 2 - Kathmandu Cultural Tour (Monday December 24, 2018)

Nepal Trip Day 2 - Kathmandu Cultural Tour (Monday December 24, 2018)

Today is our cultural tour day. We would meet our city tour guide at 9:00 am at the hotel lobby. Since we went to bed relatively early the night before around 8:00 pm, we woke up relatively early. We were dressed and ready to tackle the breakfast buffet which starts at 6:30 am. I should also mention that spending two nights at Kathmandu is also part of our acclimatization plan since Kathmandu is situated at about 4,500' above sea level. Just as a reference, Yosemite Valley is situated at about 4,000' above sea level.

We left our hotel rooms just after 6:00 am. The breakfast buffet does not open until 6:30 so we took this time to tour the hotel facility. We walked towards the Red Palace and window shopped the not yet opened Jewelry and Gift shops along the way. We took some pictures at various interesting spots in the hotel.

Corridor of Shops from the Hotel Wing to the Old Red Palace

Tibetan style painting at the hotel lobby

A display of Hindu deity Ganesha 

A wooden statue of Ganesha by the restaurant entrance

We were eager to enter the buffet since everyone was already hungry. We helped ourselves into the buffet before it was officially opened. No one was stopping us. We began to browse through the items. In included both western and Nepali dishes. We knew it was going to be a feast. This would be a perfect start of our cultural tour day. 

Cereal Bar

Yogurt and Juice

Pastry Section

Toast and Jam

Yogurt and Muesli

More pastry items

Hot Entrees

Hot Items - chicken sausages and mini hamburgers

Eggs and masala omelette

Pancakes and hard boiled eggs

Porridge and beans

Chole Bhatura

Poha Sambar

Got a plate full

Starting the day right

Sampling the local flavor

Going for second

I need to try that

We drank both black tea and masala chia. When we sat down, it was still dark outside. When we were about to wrap up, the sun was fully up. We walked outside to get a bit of fresh air. We got a great view of the old Red Palace as well as the hotel wing from the vantage point on small hill with a pagoda which displayed a deity unknown to us. 

A small hill with a Pagoda behind the pool

Fresh air in the morning

View of the old Red Palace and the hotel wing

The morning air felt a bit chilly to us so we went back to our rooms to get freshen up for our cultural tour.

Cultural Tour

We came back to the lobby around 8:45. We were promptly greeted by our cultural/city guide Naraj. We discussed our itinerary for today and proceeded to get in the van that was waiting for us outside.

The Monkey Temple

Our first stop would be Swayambhunath or more commonly known as the "Monkey Temple" located at the eastern side of the city. It was about a short twenty minute drive in morning traffic. It wasn't long before we had to rush off the van in an intersection with motorbikes and cars coming at you in all directions.

Swayambhunath or the Monkey Temple is situated on top of a small hill. One would climb 365 steps to the top of the hill to visit the UNESCO world heritage site. This location offers a vantage point to view the Kathmandu valley despite the constant haze that covers the city. It has a large stupa at the center of the site painted with eyes and various shrines that host various Buddhist or Hindu deities unknown to us. The reason this site is also called the Monkey Temple is because it is also home to countless monkeys considered holy by the locals. We climbed the 365 steps to the stupa. Along the way we saw people offering butter lamps, vendor selling the Tibetan singing bowl, and various Buddha statues. We took our time to walk around the large stupa and saw the locals spin the Tibetan prayer wheels. The Tibetan stupa and prayer wheels must be followed or turned in the clockwise location according to local tradition. We ensured that we respected this cultural custom during this trip.

Arriving at the Monkey Temple

Locals offering butter lamps 

Butter lamps

Monkeys at the Monkey Temple

Going up the steps

Vendor selling the Tibetan singing bowl

Stupas and Buddha Statues

Walking towards the main Stupa we saw workers repairing damage from the big 2015 earth quake

Reaching the main Stupa

Our guide Naraj spinning the prayer wheels

In the presence of the monkeys

Locals making offering

Main Stupa

Stone stupa around the main stupa

Temple staff spaying yellow substance around the main stupa

Shops selling various cultural items

Cultural items

A visual feast

At the prayer wheel

Do I have to take the same picture too?

There were tons of things to take in at the area around the main stupa. There were monkeys, pigeons, locals making offerings, international tourists, workers repairing the 2015 earth quake damage, and small shops selling various cultural items. We walked around the main stupa clockwise following the Tibetan culture. We snapped photos of monkeys and the colorful Tibetan prayer flags around the stupa. We observed the locals spinning the prayer wheels. We browsed the shops selling various cultural items and soaked in the city from this vantage point. We spent about an hour around this UNESCO world heritage site. It was a cultural and visual feast for us. Our guide led us down the hill towards the back of the site. We were taking everything in along the walk and enjoying the mid-day sun.

Durbar Square - The Patan Durbar Square

We got back into our van from the back of the Monkey Temple down the hill. We drove south to the area of Patan and we were going to visit the Patan Durbar Square, another UNESCO world heritage site. Durbar means palace in Nepali. Durbar Square means palace square. There are three main Durbar Squares in the Kathmandu area - the Kathmandu Durbar Square, the Patan Durbar Square, and the Bhaktapur Durbar Square. Each of these Durbar Squares belonged to a specific a Newar kingdom. The architecture of the Durbar Squares consists of various temples and palaces. It is a fusion of Hinduism, Buddhism, and east Asian cultures. The Kathmandu Durbar Square is also the residence of the Kumari, a Hindu living goddess chosen from a young female.

Driving into the Patan area where the buildings were built more narrow and close to each other

Our drop off point at the Patan Durbar Square

At the Patan Durbar Square

Chyasin Dewal, a stone temple built during the 17th century

Patan Durbar Square, the 2015 earthquake damage still being repaired

In front of one of the old wooden doors of the old palace

Entering Sundari Chowk from one of the side doors

Sundari Chowk

Intricate wood carving inside the Chowk (courtyard)

Details of the intricate wood carving

An elaborate facade of the palace

Wood carving of deity

Our guide Naraj and I at the Chowk

The intricate stone carving in front of Tusha Hiti, a ritual ablution well

Tusha Hiti

We were allowed to go upstairs to the Tushi Hiti. We had to take our shoes off and entered a small wooden stairs to go up. We were able to walk around the inside Tushi Hiti. 

Upstairs and inside the palace

View of the ablution well from upstairs

After walking around upstairs the palace, Naraj led us to a rear court yard. The rear court yard had a man-made pond. Unfortunately we did not take any pictures of the pond. Based on my research when writing this post, I learned that this pond is called the Bhandarkhal Tank. Built in the 17th century, it was one time the main water source of the Patan Durbar Square. Behind the pond or the water tank, Naraj led us to a semi-open wood working area. Naraj informed us that the workers were making wood carvings as part of the restoration project for the Durbar Square. We got to see the skilled carpenters at work. What was really interesting is that the carpenters were not looking at any prints or drawings. The designs were just in their heads. 

Skilled carpenters at work

Working on intricate carving

Tools used by the carpenter

After touring the wood working shop, we made out way out of the Tushi Hiti. On the way out we heard a Nepali guide speaking perfect Chinese to a group of private Chinese tourists.

After touring the old palace, we were watching a young school girl feeding the large group of pigeons  . Pigeons are commonly found in the Durbar Squares. We were in front of the Krishna Mandir, the 17th century stone temple dedicated to the Hindu deity Krishna. There is a tall pillar with a statue of Garuda facing the direction of the Krishna temple. We do not understand the symbolic meaning of what we saw, but enjoyed being in the presence of these historical building structures. I shot a series of photos using my GoPro Hero 6 Black. This was the only occasion that I used my GoPro during the entire trip. I was trying to get as many buildings into a single photos as possible. GoPro would significantly distort the images due to the large wide angle lens. I cannot say that the GoPro photos are great photos but they sure are interesting to look.

Walking towards Krishna Mandir (shot on GoPro Hero 6 Black)

Krishna Madir and the Garuda Statue on the left of the image (shot on GoPro Hero 6 Black)

Statue of Garuda facing the Krishna temple (shot on Canon G9XMII)

School girl feeding the pigeons (shot on GoPro Hero 6 Black)

Patan Durbar Square - this is Nepal (shot on GoPro Hero 6 Black)

Feeding the pigeons

After spending some time around the Krishna temple, Naraj led us to the Patan Museum. We viewed many of the artifacts well displayed in the museum. At this point, we were all nearly out of steam despite we were surrounded by interesting and rich cultural buildings and items. We decided to take tea and a light lunch at a cafe just behind the museum courtyard. We asked Naraj to join us and we talked about his kids and life at Nepal.

Naraj explaining the Patan Museum

Statue of deity displayed at the museum

Statue of deity displayed at the museum

Statues of deity with various poses

Statues of deity with many hands

Looking towards the center courtyard

Looking towards the rear courtyard where the cafe is

Sitting down for a relaxing light lunch with our guide Naraj

Chowing down on some fries with Ginger Ale

Christmas cookies were served with tea

Masala Chia, our drink for the trip

Tibetan singing bowl filled with water and flower

After lunch break, Naraj led out of the Patan Durbar Square to a Tibetan singing bowl workshop through the streets of Patan. The owner of the workshop, a man with short stature, showed us how the singing bowls worked. He demonstrated to us the healing effect of the singing bowls by showing us how water resonates in the bowl. Since our bodies are mostly made of water, the resonating effect of the singing bowl can interact with the fluid in our bodies to provide healing effect. He put a large singing bowl over my head and had me close my eyes to feel healing effect. He also asked MM to stand in one of the larger singing bowls to feel any effect. I thought it was interesting but I did not feel any healing effect. We bargained and bought a small singing bowl. We were speaking Chinese to each other and mentioned the word cheap. The owner apparently understood the word cheap - "pian yi" and assured us that his bowls are always a bargain. He told us he has been to Taiwan many times. 

Walking to the singing bowl workshop through Patan neighborhood

At the Tibetan Singing Bowl workshop

Water being excited by the natural frequency of the singing bowl

Getting my brain resonated

MM standing in the singing bowl

After practicing our bargaining skill, Naraj led us through another neighborhood that looked more residential to me before we got into our transport. We walked through buildings and small alley ways and took in the neighborhood. We took some photos at a statue of a large sitting Buddha where a group of local family was sitting and playing. There were seven kids with a woman. I was intrigued by the care free manner of this family near the Buddha statue. I snapped photos of them by pretending to snap photos of MM. I noticed that there was no father in this family. Perhaps the father was at work and the mom was just taking the kids out in the neighborhood. There was no shopping mall so the place to hang out would be the local spiritual center. I looked closely at the picture of the family. I noticed that we were staring at them as much as they were staring back at us. 

Walking through the Patan neighborhood

Walking through a small alley way in Patan

Reaching a large Buddha statue in Patan

MM in front of the statue with the local family on the left

Naraj offered to take a photo for us

We walked passed more narrow residential streets before we got into our transport. We were heading to our last stop for the day - the Boudhanath Stupa on the east side of Kathamandu. 

Through the narrow alley way of Patan

Taking in the Patan residential neighborhood

Walking out of the neighborhood with electrical wires on top of us

Neighborhood shop selling momos 

Peanut vendor

Walking through a neighborhood gate at Patan to our transport

We left Patan at about 1:00 pm. The distance between our next destination from Patan is only about 9 km or about 5.6 miles, but we had to fight through the afternoon traffic of Kathmandu. We sat in the van for nearly an hour and observed the madness traffic around us and taking in the city.  

Through the traffic of Kathmandu

Street of Kathmandu

Street of Kathmandu

Cramped micro van (tuk-tuk) transport in the city

The Boudhanath Stupa

The Boudhanath Stupa is one of the largest Stupas in the Kathamandu valley. It is UNESCO world heritage site and it is currently heavily influence by the Tibetans who came from China. We walked around the Stupa clockwise and took many photos of the Stupa and the prayer flags around the Stupa. We visited one of the main Tibetan Gompas in front of the Stupa. We saw Tibetans kneel and pray in the traditional way of praying and standing up repeatedly. We saw pigeons around the Stupa and tourists intermingled with locals and Tibetans. After spending about an hour here, we headed back to our hotel and concluded our cultural tour. 

Walking towards the Boudhanath Stupa

Tourists and Local going around the Stupa in clockwise fashion

Corridor entry to the Stupa

Large number of prayer flags hung around the Stupa

At the Stupa

Large number of tourist establishments around the Stupa

Picture with our guide Naraj at the Stupa

Walking around the Stupa

Tibetans praying

Prayer wheel inside the main Gompa

View of the Stupa from the Gompa

Walking out of the Stupa

Dodging traffic on the busy street to get back into our transport

Street vendor selling roasted corn on cob

After fighting more traffic, we were finally back at our hotel. We thank Naraj and the driver for taking us around. We went back to our room to rest a bit to get ready for our welcome dinner tonight at the restaurant called the Old House. 

Back at Hotel Yak & Yeti

Picture with the Hotel Staff

At the hotel lobby

Our room

We took about an hour break at our hotel room before we headed out again. we went to the money exchange to exchange some more NRs. When we left our room, we saw a group of local kids carroling at the hotel lobby. We were surprised at how open the Napali people to western customs in such a Hindu and Buddhist country. We watched the kids sing a bit and headed out to our dinner. 

Kids singing Christmas songs at the lobby

Welcome dinner - The Old House

The Old House was a short five minute walk from the hotel. We got there in no time. It is located at an old house. The restaurant had a feel of an old western style country home but the walls are decorated with various pictures of Nepal. The waitress led us to our seats in the middle of the restaurant and we sat there waited for our guide Mingma. Finally Mingma showed up, and we talked a bit. It turned out that Mingma had to leave because one of his climbing clients got altitude sickness at Island Peak, a 6500 meter peak in Khumbu. This French national had to be helo-evacuated out of the mountain to a hospital in Kathmandu. We ordered our food and talked to Mingma a bit about the logistics of tomorrow. It turned out to be a really nice meal. We enjoyed ourselves very much and stumbled back to our hotel in semi-darkness to call it a day.

At the entrance to the Old House restaurant

Tasting Menu at the Old House, we actually ordered a la carte

Freshly baked bread

Assortment of momos and short rib apptezier 

Chicken pasta

Grilled fish

Enjoying our meal before we depart to the mountains

Assortment of desserts

MM overcame by jet leg and a long day

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